Vivien Noakes in her biography of Edward Lear, Edward Lear, The Life of a Wanderer, London, 1968, p.145, describes the artist’s visit to the tiny cell of St Nilus (or St Nilo), perched on a cliff at the tip of the peninsula. In a letter to his sister Ann, he wrote, ‘that was the queerest spot I ever beheld… 2 old men lived there – neither more than half-witted; they gave me a dry fish & water melon – but only said these words all the time I was there – “are you a Christian?”’ (text by Christie’s)
Nelios by Bas Kamps
St Nilus was born in the Peloponnese at the end of the 16th Century and orphaned at an early age. He was brought up by his uncle, the holy monk Makarios, and entered the priesthood himself in the 1600’s. In 1615 the pair moved to Mount Athos to live the ascetic life. After Makarios’s death, Nilus went to live in further isolation in a cave on the Holy Mountain where he was later buried. After his death fragrant myrrh gushed forth from the cave down into the sea. Because of its miraculous healing properties, boats came regularly to collect the oil and many people were cured of their illnesses by it. (text by Christie’s)
detail Nelios by Edward LearNelios by Herman Voogd
A long-standing wish of mine was to visit this skete, as well as Skiti Panteleimonos, the last two larger places on the Holy Mountain that I had not yet seen. I tried to go there in 2009 but due to time constraints I could not do so and on a later pilgrimage we could not find the monopati behind the Ivrion monastery. But last year, in September 2023, we finally managed to find the monopati behind the monastery, which led us to the skete. On the Google Earth map below you can see that we did not choose the fastest route, the red-colored monopati would have been faster (but steeper). I called it “the forgotten skiti” because no one ever goes there, at least I don’t know any pilgrims who have bothered to make this little detour!
This faster route is also marked on the Howorth map: see the green diversion route we took.
Peter Howorth map
The name of the skete is a bit confusing: although most of the information I have found is about Skiti Iviron, according to the Greek websites it is also known as Skiti Timiou Prodromou and on the Howorth map the name Skiti Agiou Ioanni Vaptisti is used. I will use the name Skiti Iviron in this post, as Zwerger has done on his map.
Zwerger map
As mentioned, the walk to Skiti Iviron started behind the Iviron monastery, you have to turn left and cross a stream on the bridge. Here we turned left again, and if you want to take the faster route, you have to turn right again shortly afterwards (see the route on the map Wikiloc).
The bridge behind Iviron.
The monopati we chose needs some maintenance and clean-up work (a job for the FoMA footpath teams in 2024, who will be working on Athos soon?), because you can see that a number of fallen trees almost blocked the path.
When this skiti was founded is not sure, some say in the beginning of 16th century. Others say it from 1779. Nowadays it consists of 8 huts, inhabited by 6 monks, while other information says that the skiti is abandoned. But we could see that the skiti is clearly inhabited at this time, because at least three cells and the main building of Kyriakon and the surrounding buildings are well maintained, as we see later in this post. One of its inhabitants was Saint Paisios.
The Kyriakon seen from the road below.
One of the well kept smaller huts, name unkown. On the picture below the same cell is photographed from the other side.
Two other buildings, that seen to be deserted? Three huts: left Ag. Nikolaos Neomartyras, in the middle a ruin of a deserted hut and on the right Ag. Apostolon
The center of the settlement with a bell tower, a guest house, an ossuary and the church, the Kyriakon, with a large pine. Unfortunately there were no monks around to show us around and open doors.
The bell towerThe Kyriakon, build in 1779, decorated with paintings in 1799.Two photos taken through a window of the interior of the Kyriakon, showing the murals in poor condition.The iconostasisThe Kyriakon with Iviron monastery in the backgroundThe Kyriakon seen from the bell tower.The bell tower with a water tap and a plaque with textThe water tap
The plaque with a text that is difficult to read, but the date is clearly visible: 1877.
Inside the bell tower: old rusted clappersThe bell tower seen from the hill aboveThe courtyard next to the Kyriakon and ossuaryThe back door to the Kyriakon with a painting above itThe beheading of a Holy Man (presumingly the Prodromos) with a sword, with a helmed knight with long hair (could it be a woman, Salome?) and high ranks person (king Herodes?) on the right, and people (guests of the birthday party of Herodes?) looking to the scene through a window.The KyriakonBehind the Kyriakon: the ossuary and a chapel and the roof (next photo).The ossuary: when you look through the bars of the fence below you see this:The remains of deceased monks: skulls and bonesOne of the skulls has the name of the monk.We left the skiti over this bridge and continued our walk to Filotheou
I wonder if this skiti gives a possibility to sleep overnight in a guesthouse. I did not see any signs of a archondariki and unfortunately we couldn’t ask the monks. And next time when I go there is will climb the hill behind te Kyriakon once more, because on the other side you can find some more (large) huts – Ag. Antony and Archangels), that are also still inhabited.
The group of three is united again after this quick visit to the skete.
Skiti Ag. Panteleimonos: detail of map of Peter Howorth (buy it here)
It was a long-standing wish to finally pay a visit to this almost forgotten place on the Holy Mountain, which became reality on September 24th 2023. Another reason that triggered me to visit this place are the drone images monk T. made in 2020 and published on this weblog in post 2264.
Most pilgrims on Athos have seen this skete from a distance, either by car from Karyes to Iviron or to Lavra, or you may have seen it, almost hidden by the bushes and forests, from the kalderimi footpath leading from the Koultoumousiou monastery to Iviron (complete hike is 5,7 km). The hike to the skete is easy and short, after Koutloumousiou monastery mainly over dirt roads (.
Although the skete is close to Karyes, hardly any pilgrims go there.
Google Earth- a short hike from Karyes to the skitiThe dirt road to the skitiwith a bunker like object
Let’s explore this special place on Athos: Greek signs say the name I.C. Koutloumousiou, on maps usually the name skiti Ag. Panteleimonos is used. The skete is owned by Koutloumousiou.
The entire settlement consists of 13 kalyvae or cells (of which 7 are deserted), a main church/kyriakon, an ossuary/cemetery and a bell tower. One of the disadvantages of walking in the morning on Athos is that most monks either work indoors or in the fields, or sleep after a long night’s vigil. That is why unfortunately we have not had contact with any of the residents of this skete.
A first view over the skete, hidden in the valleyThe main church of Ioannis Prodromos and bell tower, accompanied by two large pine treesThe bell towerAnother side of the tower. If you look at the tiles on the right of the two windows on the firts floor is might date from 1712 ?Underneath the tower: a fresh water tapInside the bell towerNext to the three story bell tower is a refectory and an archontariki (guesthouse).The square in front of the kyriakon with the large pine treesThe kyriakon of Ioannis Prodromos is partly frescoed in1868, but we did not go inside.The door to the church and an iron semantronA marble inscription from KEDAK (to remember a restauration?)The kyriakon with another cell in the backgroundThe side door to the church/ossuary, with an inscription above itThe inscription (with the word ‘thanate’-death) and with two (primitive) cherubim above. Next to the left cherub I can read the number 18, so this painting/text might date from the 19th century. The kyriakon was built in 1790.Inside the ossuary of skiti Panteleimonos
a little door to the ossuaryStairs lead to the graveyardthe grave of Mitropolitis Fotikis AmbrosiosIn a lost corner of the graveyard: a broken vesselThe main square with the two pine treesMore cells of the sketeFoMA signs: the paths to Iviron and KaryesThe monopati to Ivironthe path goes downhill to the stream, where the main path Iviron starts.
This is an engraving from 1810 of skiti Panteleimonos, made by Theodosios Rosos. The lower zone depicts the skete of Ag. Panteleimon, with its kyriakon, bell tower, cemetery church and the kalyvae of the skete. Lower left, in the churchyard of the kyriakon and next to the skete’s olive press, is represented a holy water rite.
Recently, on March 3 2024, a fire broke out in one of the cells of skiti Panteleimonos. Monk Theophylact, who lives in the cell, was unharmed. For more information read this article.
The tower of Amalfi drone photographed by Monk Theodosius with Morfonou beach in the background. The building on the right is the first cell of Skiti Lakkou.
the location of Morfonou
If it is not to windy the Ierissos ferry goes as far as Morfonou. Morfonou is nothing more then a beach and a few boathouses and is in fact the harbour for Skiti Lakkou. The next stop would be the Lavra arsanas but that harbour is too small and the waves are getting higher at the end of the peninsula.
This is the peer where the ferry trip ends and where the ship sails back to Ierissos passing Karakalou, Filotheou, Mylopotamos, Iviron, Stavronikita, Pantocratoros, Profitou Eliou, Vatopedi, Esfigmenou and the arsanas of Chilandariou. High up the hill is the Amalfi tower visible.
the beach
The day that we sailed from Ierissos tot Morfonou it was almost completely calm, no wind and hardly any waves.
the fisherman housesAmalfi tower
We walked up in the direction of Skiti Lakkou and saw the tower of this lost monastery from the other side. This monastery was founded by monks of Amalfi in the 10th century. The Amalfinon monastery was the most prominent of the three former monasteries for Latin-speaking Christians on Mount Athos before the Great Schism of 1054.
ruins
These ruins located right under the tower on the road to Lakkou are probably of the Amalfion monastery. The slopes of Mount Athos in the background.
On the internet I came across this site, iNaturalist, where a checklist has been published with the animals and plants that have been identified on the Holy Mountain.
This gave me the idea to go through my own archive and share the nature photos I have collected over the years. I start with beautiful photos taken by monk T. with his Canon EOS-1DS camera.
22-09-2023: Sografou – praying mantis – (photo Wim Voogd)3-10-2019: Xeropotamou: hummingbird bee in ragwort (photo Wim Voogd)3-10-2019: Xeropotamou: thistle butterfly (Vanessa cardui) in a plant named European heliotrope (photo Wim Voogd)26-9-2013: Docheiariou – wolf spider (photo Wim Voogd)26-9-2013: Docheiariou – gekko (in the same room as the wolf spider!) (photo Wim Voogd),
24-09-2023: and last but not least: a video with only the sound of howling jackels heard (and not seen) from a balcony in Iviron
Last week, Stefanos Katrinakis from Greece contacted us: he had a question about a photo we published in November 2023 in blog 2291, “The festivities of Lavra’s 1000 years.” According to Stefanos, the man in the third – black and white – photo from 1963 is called Evgenios Kastanias, who was the brother of his grandmother – or his uncle.
The photo of (probably) Father Evgenios Kastanias at Megista Lavra in 1963 by Ger Dommerholt
Stefanos shared this amazing story about the life of Evgenios on Mount Athos.
“Evgenios was born on July 26, 1914 on the island of Crete and died on November 1, 2009 at the age of 95. He arrived on Athos as a young boy when he was only 12 years old in 1926 and lived in Kelli of Theotokou Kastania in Provata/Assumption of Mary.
Provata – kelli Theotokou Kastania – detail of the Peter Howorth map
He lived on Athos for 82 years, while his total life span was 95 years. Those 82 years on Athos made him one of the longest-living Elders. He became an Elder when he was only 14 years old when the boat sank on its way from Athos Morfonou to the island of Limnos. All the monks of Kastania drowned, except for himself (14 years old) and another very old monk, from that time in the 1930s.
He had an extremely demanding life on Athos, as the period was extremely turbulent (World War II 1940-1944, Civil War in Greece 1946-1948). He helped soldiers who took part in the struggle for independence of Greece in many battles. What was very special about him is that he was a very charismatic priest and he brought many souls close to Jesus Christ.”
This is a photo of Father Evgenios that Stefanos shared with us:
Father Evgenios Kastarias – 1914/2009
Wim Voogd, 26/2/2024 (thanks to Stefanos Katrinakis)
With the generous assistance of my good friend monk T I am able to show you some more unique pictures from Sografou monastery, which he made made in 2004 and 2005 with his Canon EOS-1DS, almost 20 years ago this year. Just enjoy this lovely photo survey:
In this post we take a closer look at the interior of the Chapel of Saint Georgios.
But first I can share some photos from nine years ago, taken in 2005 by monk T., who today sent me the photos he took at this location (thank you very much!).
Below are three photo’s I made in the exo-narthex:
a wood stovekitchen items and an icon of St George and the Dragona heavy grill in a window to the church
The church is build in 1850 and has an interior that is common in most East European churches on Athos, that means the walls are white and without any murals.
2023: the dome of the chapel with remnants of blue paint and golden stars.2023: the interior of the church with white walls, towards the exit door, with our Bulgarian friend Metodi (on the right) explaining the things we see in English
The colorful iconostasis of the chapel. In the photos I show you below are – I think – three types of painting skills represented. The first ones are is the most professional or highly skilled icons, just next to mid-entrance in the iconostasis.
To the right of the door: the Lord Jesus and St GeorgiosTo the left: the Panaghia with the Child Jesus and two Saints: Agios Ioannis Prodromos and Agios Nicolaos
The second type of paintings can be found on the doors in the middle of the iconostasis, with images that represent a more folk way of painting, and on an icon that hangs on the wall.
The more primitive style of painting on the door of the iconostasisA row of Saints on the top level of the iconostasis with a large Cross on top.On top of the doors in the middle:a small painting of a Holy SaintThe icon of the Archangel Gabriel: also a more primitive painting style
This last type of painting I found in this Chapel is the most surprising: here the artist took the liberty of painting in a free style, that is, he used his imagination to paint different types of flowers to fill some panels in the iconostasis. It is not very common to see this kind of free art on Athos, but here in this chapel is an unique example.
A prayer chair in the corner, with cleaning supplies and a fire extinguisherA standard to place books onDifferent paintings and an almost faded etching on the wall, The almost faded etching in Bulgarian, for me almost impossible to translate, although I could read that the text is about some kind of Patriarch. Part of the text is in calligraphy.
Later that evening we returned to the monastery, very pleased that mr Metodi invited us to visit this special location on Athos and I am proud to present the images (for the first time on the internet?).
The entrance to the monastery
And thanks to Monk T who contributed to this post with his fine and professional pictures from 9 years ago.
Screenshot Google Earth: the opposite hill with Agios Georgios Kyriakon or chapel
The toothless old man who helped me access the hill and open the gate
As mentioned in previous posts, I spent a week at Sografou Monastery in September 2023, together with my friends from the FoMA footpath clearance team. Over the course of a week you get to know the other pilgrims a little better, and in this case it was a friendly old man who didn’t speak a word of English. On September 20, he watered the roses along the wall leading to the gate, where two recently created large mosaics can be seen, but he had no key.
Agios Georgios
II made it clear to him (with a lot of gestures and a few German and English words) that I wanted to visit the unknown hill. In the end I think he understood that I wanted that, because the next day the English-speaking Bulgarian pilgrim named Metodi Mladenov took us to this unknown place after Trapeza (read more about him in post 2301 and about the library of Sografou). The only thing I knew about this hill was that you could find a church or chapel dedicated to Ag. Georgios there.
The first gate: the kladerimi to the Agios Georgios chapel
The next day we climbed the hill together with a small group of pilgrims and Metodi, who brought the keys, to open the iron gate. Shortly afterwards we came to a second gate, but it was unlocked.
The kalderimi that leads uphillThe wall and the second gateThe Kyriakon and surrounding buildings/cells of workers or monks
From the top of the hill you have a stunning view of the Sografou monastery. Most old postcards were taken from this position. Not much has changed in 120 years.
Sografou on a postcard (around 1900)Sografou seen through this (recently build?) arch
After entering a courtyard we saw these buildings:
On the left the Kyriakon and on the right the cells, with a bronze bell and stacked firewood. The state of maintenance of the buildings on the right is rapidly deteriorating. And in the background: the arch that can be seen in the previous photo.The same corner, seen from a different positionThe Kyriakon
We were told that until recently the buildings were used by laymen and workers, along with some monks. Today all buildings are uninhabited and abandoned.
Some parts of the buildings are already falling into rubble and roofs and walls are crumbling, but an old-fashioned toilet could still be used!
The water tap with a basin
The stone with a cross above the water tap, with an illegible inscription made in 1895.
Bell from1921Blue doors with a button to ring the bell, locked with a piece of woodThe Kyriakon with some scaffolding and a very old vine above the doorMade in 1850The FoMA team, with (fltr) Lukas, Pieter, me, Roger and Abraham (sitting) – photo by MetodiThe whole group, including some Bulgarian pilgrimsThe view to the North: a wall and the green hills of Athos
Wim Voogd, 5/2/2024
(in the next post we have a closer look inside the Kyriakon)
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